HOLLYWOOD, Mar. 19 — The well-groomed man spends $250 for a tailor-made suit, $150 for hand-lasted shoes, $30 for a hand-made shirt, $25 for a necktie (imported) and then shoots the works on a $2 haircut.

But not in Hollywood.

Movie stars spend from $20 to $30 for their haircuts, too. And it is just enough to make the difference in appearance from, say, Henry Fonda and the millionaire auto maker from Detroit, or Dick Chamberlain from that nice Insurance executive in Chicago.

Fonda and Chamberlain are among those who have their hair cut — no, styled is a better word — by Jay Sebring, a 31-year-old native of Fairfield, Ala., who has built a fortune on only six years by hiding the knobs, bumps and cowlicks on the heads of some of Hollywood’s top screen heroes.

Sebring has expanded his operations from a single chair to a bustling shop of a dozen hair stylists, all of whom he trained himself.

His tonsorial emporium is unlike any ordinary barbershop. Coffee is served at all hours, classical music and modern jazz float out through hi-fi speakers and there’s a relaxed, masculine air about the place.

Sebring charges $30 for the first haircut, and $20 thereafter. His staff hits the first-comer $15 and $10 on subsequent visits.

Is this a ridiculous sign of inflationary times?

“No,” says Sebring. “A good haircut is more important to a man’s grooming than his clothes. Women have always known how vital their hairdo is to overall appearance. Men still don’t realize the difference a proper haircut can make.”

Sebring isn’t soliciting business. He has more customers than he can handle, and many of them are movie stars. Howard Keel, Steve McQueen, Frank Sinatra, George Chakiris. Tony Franciose and Vic Damone.

He devotes a full 45 minutes or an hour to each haircut, using comb and scissors, never razor or electric clippers.

Some actors must be clipped every week to insure their haircut will match up in each scene of a movie. Such is the case with George Peppard in “The Third Day.” When he can’t make it to Sebring’s shop, Sebring cuts his hair in the Warner Bros. dressing room.

‘I’ve altered Chuck Connors’ appearance several times,” Sebring said. “For ‘Arrest and Trial’ I gave him a court cut, a conservative attorney style, a little on the glamorous side. For the picture, ‘Synanon,’ Chuck wanted his hair to look like that ex-junkie.

“Now I’ve cut it differently for his new series, ‘Branded.’ We came out with an authentic, rustic type. It looks as if it had been wacked off with a sharp knife in front.”

New customers (anti old ones, too) have their hair washed before Sebring goes to work. He brushes the wet hair around until it falls naturally into its regular growth pattern. Then Sebring fashions a style that adheres to a specific design.

Sometimes it changes a man’s whole appearance.

“I work with the natural placement of the hair as much as possible instead of fighting it,” Sebring said. “Actually, the Romans had the right idea.

“Almost all hair grows forward, toward the forehead. But society wouldn’t permit businessmen to wear their hair that way. At least not at the moment. But Marlon Brando, Steve McQueen and The Beatles wear their hair with a forward brush.”

Sebring’s own hair is cut by one of his men — Free.

Sebring has prospered sufficiently to live in Jean Harlow’s old home in Benedict Canyon and is preparing to open a new, plush shop (complete with steam bath and gym) on the Sunset Strip.

By VERNON SCOTT